Greenwashing: An Experience That Changes Perspectives

In recent years, sustainability has become an ever-present buzzword. Just walk into a store or browse an e-commerce site to come across labels promising “eco,” “green,” and “responsible” clothing. Yet, behind this increasingly widespread narrative, an opposite feeling is growing: doubt. Is it all truly sustainable? Or is it, more and more often, just a bit of sneaky marketing?

This tension serves as a backdrop for a recent study published in the Journal of Cleaner Production, which investigates a phenomenon now central to the relationship between companies and consumers: greenwashing—that is, the tendency of some companies to present themselves as sustainable without actually being so. The authors are Francesca Romana Rinaldi (SDA Bocconi School of Management and Department of Management and Technology) and Fahimeh Khatami (postdoctoral researcher in the same department), along with Enrico Cagno (Milan Polytechnic) and Alberto Ferraris (University of Turin). Their goal is to understand why consumers are becoming increasingly skeptical of brands’ environmental promises, especially in the fashion industry.

When “green” no longer convinces

The starting point is simple yet powerful: the more companies communicate sustainability, the more consumers learn to question those messages. As the authors point out,

“Greenwashing practices can lead to consumer skepticism and negative perceptions of green marketing claims.”

In other words, greenwashing is not just an ethical or environmental problem: it is a problem of trust. And trust, once broken, is difficult to rebuild. But where does this skepticism come from? The study’s answer is straightforward: skepticism stems from experience.

Experience that changes perspectives

The research, based on over 2,400 young Gen Z and Millennial consumers, shows that it is precisely personal experiences—along with environmental knowledge and ecological concerns—that make people more attentive, more critical, and less willing to take things “at face value.”

Those who know more, who stay informed, and who have already encountered opaque practices develop a sort of “antibody” against green marketing. They no longer just listen: they verify, compare, and question. Not surprisingly, the study notes:

“Consumers with a more substantial environmental background are better equipped to analyze green claims critically.”

It is a significant cultural shift: consumers are no longer passive but become active interpreters of corporate messages.

Perception matters more than reality

It is not so much what companies do that sets consumer choices, but how what they do is perceived. The data clearly show that the perception of environmental claims is the decisive factor:

“Perception itself exerts a dominant influence on consumer skepticism and willingness to pay.”

It is as if there were an invisible filter: all information goes through it. And if that filter is clouded by doubt, even the most virtuous initiatives risk losing credibility.

According to the model illustrated in the study, experience fuels perception, and perception guides decisions. An almost circular process, in which every new experience reinforces—or weakens—trust.

The fashion industry: promises and ambiguity

The fashion industry is a particularly sensitive arena. It is among the most exposed sectors to pressure towards becoming sustainable; on the other hand, it is also one of the most critical in terms of environmental impact. It is therefore not surprising that many companies have ramped up their “green” messaging. But, as the study highlights, these claims are often vague, difficult to verify, or even misleading.

The result? A vicious cycle: more unclear messages, more skepticism. More skepticism, less trust. And ultimately, even less willingness to pay for truly sustainable products.

More aware consumers, a more selective market

There is, however, some good news. The study shows that when consumers can distinguish between authentic communication and greenwashing, they become more inclined to reward credible companies.

Trust, therefore, has not disappeared: it has simply become more demanding. Those who communicate transparently, who offer concrete evidence, and who avoid vague slogans can still win over consumers. But they must do so with consistency and clarity, and it is no longer enough to simply claim to be sustainable: they must prove it.

This means investing in traceability, independent certifications, and clear communication. It also means educating consumers and helping them understand sustainable choices. And above all, it means avoiding shortcuts. Because in the long run, greenwashing doesn’t pay off: it erodes trust, damages reputation, and weakens the entire sustainability market.

Institutions are beginning to take action, for example with EU Directive 2024/825 “EmpCo” (Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition), specifically designed to combat deceptive practices and make information more verifiable. But true transformation requires a cultural shift: more informed consumers and more responsible companies. The future of sustainable fashion hangs in the balance. And, more broadly, the credibility of the entire “green” system.